Roasted Eggplant

A roasted eggplant is fragrant and delicate, so no surprise that roasting is the first step in most of this week’s eggplant recipes. Large globe eggplants require from 20 to 25 minutes to cook, depending on how plump they are. Small narrow eggplants, such as Japanese eggplants, take about 15 minutes.

If you need for the eggplant to hold its shape, roast it for a shorter time, until you see the skin beginning to wrinkle.

1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Cut the stem and calyx off the eggplant, and cut the body lengthwise in half. Score large eggplants down the middle with the tip of a knife, being careful not to cut through the skin. Japanese eggplants and other small eggplants need not be scored.

Cover a baking sheet with foil, and brush the foil with extra virgin olive oil. Place the eggplant on the foil, cut side down. Place in the oven and roast large, fat eggplants for 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the size; small, narrow Japanese eggplants (and other varieties) should be roasted for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven when skin has begun to shrivel, the edges and cut surface are browned, and the eggplant has softened but not collapsed. Remove from the oven, and use a spatula to detach from the foil if the eggplant is sticking. (If a thin surface of browned eggplant stays behind, don’t worry.) Place the eggplant halves cut side down on a rack set over a baking sheet, or in a colander. Allow to cool and drain for 15 to 30 minutes.

Advance preparation: You can roast eggplant several hours before you use it in a recipe.

Caponata

Caponata is a sweet-and-sour Sicilian version of ratatouille. Because eggplant readily absorbs other flavors, it’s particularly good in such a pungent dish. Caponata should be served at room temperature, but it’s good cold and tastes even better if left overnight. Caponata makes a great topping for bruschetta.

1 1/2 pounds eggplant (1 large), roasted

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 stalks celery, from the tender inner stalks, diced

3 large garlic cloves, minced

2 red bell peppers, diced

Salt to taste

1 pound ripe tomatoes, preferably Romas, peeled, seeded and finely chopped, or 1 14-ounce can crushed tomatoes (in puree)

3 heaped tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped pitted green olives

2 tablespoons sugar, plus a pinch

3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar, or sherry vinegar (more to taste)

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Roast the eggplant, then allow to cool. Chop coarsely.

2. Heat one tablespoon of the oil over medium heat in a large, heavy nonstick skillet, then add the onion and celery. Stir until the onion softens, about five minutes, and add the garlic. Cook together for a minute, until the garlic begins to smell fragrant, and add the peppers and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Stir until just tender, about eight minutes. Add another tablespoon of oil and the eggplant, and stir together for another five minutes, until the vegetables are tender. The eggplant will fall apart, which is fine. Season to taste.

3. Add the tomatoes to the pan with about 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of sugar. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan often, for five to 10 minutes, until the tomatoes have cooked down somewhat and smell fragrant. Add the capers, olives, remaining sugar and vinegar. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often, for 20 to 30 minutes, until the vegetables are thoroughly tender and the mixture is quite thick, sweet and fragrant. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and remove from the heat. Allow to cool to room temperature. If possible, cover and chill overnight. Serve at room temperature.

Yield: Serves six to eight

Advance preparation: Caponata will keep for three to five days in the refrigerator.

Cold Steamed Eggplant With Sesame Soy Dressing

Steamed eggplant has a delicate, silky texture. Dress it while still hot -- the eggplant will soak up the sauce, and the flavor will permeate the dish. Then refrigerate and serve cold. If you want to add more spice to this salad, include the minced serrano chile.

2 pounds eggplant, preferably Japanese eggplants

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon seasoned rice wine vinegar

1 small garlic clove, minced

1 to 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger (to taste)

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil or walnut oil

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of cayenne or red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon chopped chives or cilantro

Optional: 1 small serrano chile, seeded if desired and minced

1 bag baby arugula, washed and dried, for serving

1 small red bell pepper, cut in thin slices, for garnish (optional)

1. If you can find Japanese eggplant, cut them in half lengthwise, then cut into pieces that will fit into your steamer. If using large globe eggplants, cut them lengthwise into quarters. Place in a steamer and steam 10 to 15 minutes, until thoroughly tender and you can cut through with the tip of a knife with no resistance. You will probably have to do this in 2 batches.

2. Meanwhile, make the dressing. Whisk together the lime juice, soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, ginger, sesame or walnut oil, olive oil, and cayenne or red pepper flakes. Set aside.

3. When the eggplant is tender, use tongs to remove it from the steamer, and transfer to a cutting board. Allow to cool for 5 minutes, then cut into 1-inch wide slices. Season with salt and pepper and while still warm, toss with the dressing and the optional minced chile. Refrigerate for 1 hour or longer.

4. Remove from the refrigerator and gently toss with the chives or cilantro. Arrange the arugula on a platter and top with the eggplant. Garnish with the optional red pepper slices.

Yield: Serves 6

Advance preparation: You can make this through Step 3 several hours ahead of serving.